We thought we'd start with a biggy. Actually, we thought we'd start with the biggest - Scafell pike: the tallest mountain in England at a cool 978m (3,209 ft in old money). The traditional route is pretty straight up and down from Wasdale Head, a scree path, populated by hundreds of people on a sunny Saturday in July. This was our original plan. We planned to camp at The National Trust Campsite right at the base of the path, get up and down, tick it off, one more down. But we soon realised that bagging changes your whole mindset. Why summit one peak (even if it's England's largest) if you can summit three! The thing about Wainwrights is, once you're up there, it can just be a hop, skip and a scramble from one summit to the next.
We found a blog, Walk Lakes (link below), with brilliant guides to walks across the Lake District. Although not specifically targeted at those trying to bag Wainwrights, their walks often take in multiple peaks so it gave us a good starting point for bagging several peaks in a single walk. We chose "Great End, Scafell Pike, and Lingmell: a roundabout journey", taking in an additional two fells to our original target. 5 hours minimum time, we felt was perfectly doable with a whole day of glorious July sunshine ahead of us.
As our trip got closer day after day of baking hot summer sun turned into week after week and for the first time in my life I was worried that heat, not rain, would prevent our walk. Liz is a celt through and through and I feared five hours in 30 degree heat would turn her into a lobster, plus I panic about running out of water at the best of times. But we were both determined. So we bough ourselves a hydration backpack with a 2L reservoir (see equipment), factor 50 suncream and got up at the crack of dawn to avoid the hottest of the days heat.
Turns out it was already 20 degrees at 6.30am, but there was a cool mountain breeze in the air so we ambitiously packed our trusty fleeces and kept our fingers crossed. Before we even reached the official start of the walk (The Wasdale Head Inn) our zip off trousers had been diminished to shorts, the fleeces never left the bag!
We found a blog, Walk Lakes (link below), with brilliant guides to walks across the Lake District. Although not specifically targeted at those trying to bag Wainwrights, their walks often take in multiple peaks so it gave us a good starting point for bagging several peaks in a single walk. We chose "Great End, Scafell Pike, and Lingmell: a roundabout journey", taking in an additional two fells to our original target. 5 hours minimum time, we felt was perfectly doable with a whole day of glorious July sunshine ahead of us.
As our trip got closer day after day of baking hot summer sun turned into week after week and for the first time in my life I was worried that heat, not rain, would prevent our walk. Liz is a celt through and through and I feared five hours in 30 degree heat would turn her into a lobster, plus I panic about running out of water at the best of times. But we were both determined. So we bough ourselves a hydration backpack with a 2L reservoir (see equipment), factor 50 suncream and got up at the crack of dawn to avoid the hottest of the days heat.
Turns out it was already 20 degrees at 6.30am, but there was a cool mountain breeze in the air so we ambitiously packed our trusty fleeces and kept our fingers crossed. Before we even reached the official start of the walk (The Wasdale Head Inn) our zip off trousers had been diminished to shorts, the fleeces never left the bag!
Barley metres from The Wasdale Head Inn we hit our first snag. A field of cattle with calfs blocked our path. Now we are both vegetarians and firmly believe cows should understand this and therefore treat us with kindness. However, the look in the eye of the cow who stood firmly in the gate we needed to get through implied this might not be the case. This and our limited experience of walking taught us we should probably avoid this field. The first scramble of the day took us over a dry stone wall into a parallel field and back again! Luckily our path then took us swiftly off the valley floor, up the flank of Great Gable, where the only livestock were the decidedly timid sheep.
The majority of our ascent happened here. The valley floor fell away and we climbed and climbed until we reached Styhead Tarn and then up again, off the main corridor route (favoured by many as an ascent of Scafell Pike), to Sprinkle Tarn. By this point the sun was baking down and the water of the Lakes began to look very tempting. A cold splash of water to our faces and we were ascending again. Up and up for around 3 hours until we reached Esk Hause. Up until this point Great End appeared a shear cliff and Scarfell Pike and Lingmell weren't even visible. But from Esk Hause I could use my burgeoning compass skills to locate us and pin point the mighty peak we were aiming for. The oddity of this walk is that despite being England's largest peak it is only when you circle the stone wall of Great End that Scarfell Pike comes into view at all.
The majority of our ascent happened here. The valley floor fell away and we climbed and climbed until we reached Styhead Tarn and then up again, off the main corridor route (favoured by many as an ascent of Scafell Pike), to Sprinkle Tarn. By this point the sun was baking down and the water of the Lakes began to look very tempting. A cold splash of water to our faces and we were ascending again. Up and up for around 3 hours until we reached Esk Hause. Up until this point Great End appeared a shear cliff and Scarfell Pike and Lingmell weren't even visible. But from Esk Hause I could use my burgeoning compass skills to locate us and pin point the mighty peak we were aiming for. The oddity of this walk is that despite being England's largest peak it is only when you circle the stone wall of Great End that Scarfell Pike comes into view at all.
The first summit came fast off Esk Hause. A swift scramble up a relatively clear path and we were at the top. The top of Great End is a large plateau with scattered scree, often in piles, vaguely similar to cairns. So despite what appeared to be clear instructions on which was the highest point we never found clarity on this point. Instead we found the flattest point and stopped for lunch!
Now our aim had been lunch on top of Scafell Pike, but it was midday and we'd been climbing since 8:30! We were starving and our veggie NY deli sandwiches (home made of course) were calling too us. We were approximately an hour behind our estimated walk time, which would have been fine. But today was no ordinary day. Today was the day England was in the quarter finals of the world cup! And kick off was three. Even my Welsh wife was desperate to get down for the three o'clock kick off (we'd already checked that the Wasdale Head Inn was showing the match).
So lunch was a quick affair and we were climbing again. The hardest part of the walk in the midday heat (a slight timing error).
Now our aim had been lunch on top of Scafell Pike, but it was midday and we'd been climbing since 8:30! We were starving and our veggie NY deli sandwiches (home made of course) were calling too us. We were approximately an hour behind our estimated walk time, which would have been fine. But today was no ordinary day. Today was the day England was in the quarter finals of the world cup! And kick off was three. Even my Welsh wife was desperate to get down for the three o'clock kick off (we'd already checked that the Wasdale Head Inn was showing the match).
So lunch was a quick affair and we were climbing again. The hardest part of the walk in the midday heat (a slight timing error).
Most of our height was now gained but that didn't stop summiting the pike being a challenge. Bolder fields lie between the two mountains. These are well marked with frequent cairns but you have to watch every step as trip hazards are abound for a clumsy one like me. Even the surest of foot needs to keep a close eye on loose bolders and patches of scree. As you cross the final bolder field the summit looks like it is spitting distance but a sharp drop (hard on the knees) leads to the final accent. From a distance this looks more like an rock climb than a walk. And I'm not ashamed to say I felt queasy at the thought. But with group after group of baby boomers storming past us to take on the challenge I felt I couldn't turn back.
It was hands, feet and concentration to the top. But much more doable than it first appeared. The summit was hidden until the final scramble. But a buzz of noise became loader and loader as the top drew nearer. Scarfell Pike was covered, hundreds of people. Our walk had miss led us to the isolation of our spot. Almost completely secluded until we reached it's highest point. Below us we saw the traditional route falling away with rows and rows of ant like people streaming in both directions. This and the loose scree path from top to bottom is definitely something to consider if your planning a route up Scafell Pike.
We were now two peaks down, two hours behind and one hour away from the England vs. Sweden kick off. The burgeoning baggers in us realised the call to the third fell was stronger than a desire to watch the football. So off we set again.
It was hands, feet and concentration to the top. But much more doable than it first appeared. The summit was hidden until the final scramble. But a buzz of noise became loader and loader as the top drew nearer. Scarfell Pike was covered, hundreds of people. Our walk had miss led us to the isolation of our spot. Almost completely secluded until we reached it's highest point. Below us we saw the traditional route falling away with rows and rows of ant like people streaming in both directions. This and the loose scree path from top to bottom is definitely something to consider if your planning a route up Scafell Pike.
We were now two peaks down, two hours behind and one hour away from the England vs. Sweden kick off. The burgeoning baggers in us realised the call to the third fell was stronger than a desire to watch the football. So off we set again.
Lingmell is very easily overlooked if you haven't planned it. A grassy mound paling in comparison to its giant of a neighbour. But the path jutting off from the main Scafell Pike trail took us almost immediately into seclusion and the chatter (and weirdly, people with boomboxes) of the pike faded behind us. The scramble was short and easy and the views back over the valley we had walked up seven hours previously were astonishing. This seemed to be a view few others were enjoying.
Up until this point we had stuck to Walk Lakes guide religiously. But sat in silence watching the ants climb down the side of the pike, we couldn't bring ourselves to re-join this motorway of walkers. My map skills are something I'm working on. I only started doing it a few months ago but there are some brilliant online tutorials and books (see links below). I thought now was the perfect time to test them out (30 minutes till kick off....)
We found a path falling from the top of Lingmell and following the other trail and a peaceful parallel. Contour lines seem hard for me to get my head round but I was certain there was a steep climb but we figured we could manage it.
It was 14:30 and the heat was blazing. Our water reservoir was still treating us well but as we came down down down back into the valley the heat began to intensify and after 7.5 hours of walking I began to shake. Now, I'm a nurse and I know heat stroke can be a real danger. Liz felt similarly and the group of young lads with huge packs looked decidedly ropey as they took a break on the hill side. This part of the lakes is lacking in trees, and therefore shade, making this decent painful. But we made it. It took us 8 hours and a close call with heat stroke but we rolled into the pub 30 minutes after kick off and 1/0 up!
Up until this point we had stuck to Walk Lakes guide religiously. But sat in silence watching the ants climb down the side of the pike, we couldn't bring ourselves to re-join this motorway of walkers. My map skills are something I'm working on. I only started doing it a few months ago but there are some brilliant online tutorials and books (see links below). I thought now was the perfect time to test them out (30 minutes till kick off....)
We found a path falling from the top of Lingmell and following the other trail and a peaceful parallel. Contour lines seem hard for me to get my head round but I was certain there was a steep climb but we figured we could manage it.
It was 14:30 and the heat was blazing. Our water reservoir was still treating us well but as we came down down down back into the valley the heat began to intensify and after 7.5 hours of walking I began to shake. Now, I'm a nurse and I know heat stroke can be a real danger. Liz felt similarly and the group of young lads with huge packs looked decidedly ropey as they took a break on the hill side. This part of the lakes is lacking in trees, and therefore shade, making this decent painful. But we made it. It took us 8 hours and a close call with heat stroke but we rolled into the pub 30 minutes after kick off and 1/0 up!
The Wasdale Head Inn is the only pub for miles and I don't think they were quite ready for the football crowds. We waited an hour for our first drink at the bar and my legs were really struggling. But the Tractor Shed Brewery's excellent range of craft beers made up for the wait and my weary legs somehow held me standing for the second half of the football (watched on what appeared to be the TV from someone's house on a makeshift table in a tent!).
Also the Wasdale Head Inn gave us an unexpected treat. As vegetarians we don't expect much from pub grub in the sticks but the Wasdale Head Inn was an excellent surprise. Chip shop style chips and a halloumi burger worthy of 8 hours on the mountains. If you're a vegetarian wandering the hills searching helplessly for edible pub grub, these lesbian in fleeces recommend the Wasdale Head Inn!
Also the Wasdale Head Inn gave us an unexpected treat. As vegetarians we don't expect much from pub grub in the sticks but the Wasdale Head Inn was an excellent surprise. Chip shop style chips and a halloumi burger worthy of 8 hours on the mountains. If you're a vegetarian wandering the hills searching helplessly for edible pub grub, these lesbian in fleeces recommend the Wasdale Head Inn!
Lessons learnt!
- There is no such thing as too early to start a walk on a day with not a cloud in the sky in mid July.
- Guided walks are done by experts. We are slower. We need to navigate. We need to eat. Their timings are minimums. Ours will be longer (sometimes much longer).
- Water water water water .... then beer!