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There are more things in heaven and earth than the English Lake District! It's true! I know, it was shocking to me to but it turns out there are mountains and hills and the great out doors up and down the land. Some of them are within spitting distance of cities and don't take you 4 hours to get to. A few weekends ago we were in Cardiff (Liz's home city) for Pride and we decided to take some time out from the bright lights, beer and rainbow flags and head to the Brecon Beacons.
The Brecon Beacons lie north, north, west of Cardiff, about a 40 minute drive to get to it's heart. The name refers to both a mountain range and one of Wales's fine national parks. The range sits in the middle of the park and is home to Pen Y Fan, Wales's third highest peak. Last year, for my thirtieth birthday, we climbed Snowdon and Cadair Idris. This Friday afternoon stroll meant we had climbed the three highest peaks in Wales (not that we're counting or anything). We'd driven up to Cardiff the night before to see a Pussy Riot gig and sup the ever enjoyable beverages of Crafty Devil brewery in Canton. So we had tiny hangovers, baby hangovers shall we say and rain was hammering on the bedroom window when we woke up but we were really keen to complete our Welsh three peaks so we packed our sandwiches, put on our walking boots and stared out of the kitchen window drinking cup after cup of tea until the rain subsided. As soon as it stopped we were off, foot down all the way to Storey Arms before it could start raining again. |
The Story Arms is, in fact, an outdoor adventure centre and not as I had imagined a nice cosy inn at the end of our walk to have a pint in before heading back to Cardiff. It has a car park, a loo and a lovely women in a coffee van who filled up our enormous flask for £3 and insisted we took polystyrene cups as, in her words, we'd paid for them. We originally planned a much longer walk, following a National Trust Brecon Beacons Horseshoe Ridge Walk but this was a good days walk and the rain had held us off until lunch time so we decided to do the more traditional route, straight up and down from Storey Arms (Horseshoe Ridge we will be back for you).
I was concerned on the drive up as we didn't have a map for this walk, only for our original plan. Our track record with navigation has left me feeling a bit nervy. Liz gave me a wry smile and turned down my suggestion to stop on the way for a map. She is a good Welsh lass and must know these mountains well, I reassured myself, so no map it was (I only found out at the foot of the mountain that she hadn't climbed it before). Now you may be thinking those reckless lesbians, playing fast and loose with their own safety but I quickly learnt even if you've never been up Pen Y Fan or a mountain for that matter the path is so clear you could climb it with your eyes closed. We weren't in the Lakes now (and it was quite nice actually, I liked the lack of jeopardy).
I was concerned on the drive up as we didn't have a map for this walk, only for our original plan. Our track record with navigation has left me feeling a bit nervy. Liz gave me a wry smile and turned down my suggestion to stop on the way for a map. She is a good Welsh lass and must know these mountains well, I reassured myself, so no map it was (I only found out at the foot of the mountain that she hadn't climbed it before). Now you may be thinking those reckless lesbians, playing fast and loose with their own safety but I quickly learnt even if you've never been up Pen Y Fan or a mountain for that matter the path is so clear you could climb it with your eyes closed. We weren't in the Lakes now (and it was quite nice actually, I liked the lack of jeopardy).
The path was clear as day, heading up the side of the mountain right to the top. I could see where it ended from where it began. This path had no ambiguity, no uncertainty and hordes of people, young and old, headed up the side of the mountain in a steady stream. The were kids in trainers and hikers in name brand waterproofs- Pen Y Fan welcomes all comers.
The day was grey but it wasn't raining and as we started the rapid ascent more and more of the Brecon Beacons and the near by Black Mountains became visible. The mountains roll away on all sides, less craggy than the Lakes but many of the mountains have sheer edges which look like grassy cliffs. On closer inspection the edges are striped with rock from floor to sky. Wild horses and sheep roamed the lower slopes of the mountains. Maybe not as secluded as the Lakes but no less stunning.
The day was grey but it wasn't raining and as we started the rapid ascent more and more of the Brecon Beacons and the near by Black Mountains became visible. The mountains roll away on all sides, less craggy than the Lakes but many of the mountains have sheer edges which look like grassy cliffs. On closer inspection the edges are striped with rock from floor to sky. Wild horses and sheep roamed the lower slopes of the mountains. Maybe not as secluded as the Lakes but no less stunning.
At the top of the path a table top mountain stands proud and Liz indicates that this is our target. We're at it's base before long, much less than an hour. We don't really feel we deserve our pack up as we find a little nook just below the top, out of the wind, for lunch. From our little hiding place we feel totally alone but we can look down on tiny people walking the path below us, seemingly missing out the summit and taking on Corn Du, the mountain to the southwest. I'm a little confused, but it seems like an easier ascent than the scramble to the top of the peak we sit on.
As we finish up our sarnies the rain comes in and we quickly ram everything back into our bags so we can get to the top before the weather worsens. A quick scramble and we're on there, being blown off our feet and unable to see any view. As we come down the other side the weather immediately clears, we wished we'd stayed in our lunch spot for 5 mins more. Slightly soggy we decide we might as well climb Corn Du, it's just over by there (as the Welsh say) and everyone else seems very interested, more interested even. A very quick climb and we were at the second summit. Ahead of us lay an enormous cairn with a national trust sign bang in the middle. We looked at each other... and realised our error. We very nearly climbed to the top of Pen Y Fan without actually walking to the top of Pen Y Fan. The first peak was Corn Du and we were NOW standing on top of Wales's third highest mountain at 873m.
As we finish up our sarnies the rain comes in and we quickly ram everything back into our bags so we can get to the top before the weather worsens. A quick scramble and we're on there, being blown off our feet and unable to see any view. As we come down the other side the weather immediately clears, we wished we'd stayed in our lunch spot for 5 mins more. Slightly soggy we decide we might as well climb Corn Du, it's just over by there (as the Welsh say) and everyone else seems very interested, more interested even. A very quick climb and we were at the second summit. Ahead of us lay an enormous cairn with a national trust sign bang in the middle. We looked at each other... and realised our error. We very nearly climbed to the top of Pen Y Fan without actually walking to the top of Pen Y Fan. The first peak was Corn Du and we were NOW standing on top of Wales's third highest mountain at 873m.
The clouds were looking dark again so it was time to get down- after the obligatory photo op on the cairn. We take the same path for the return, before we get to the base of the peak the rain is coming down, driving in our faces. I, as always, am wearing my light weight, easy dry walking trousers. The problem with easy drying clothing is its also easy wet. By the time we'd rounded the summit of Corn Du I was wet to the skin from the thigh down and my lovely new waterproof was keeping my top half bone dry but the water was running off (as intended) and dripping onto my crouch, giving all that saw me the impression that I had been so desperate for a wee on this tree free mountain side, I felt the need to wee my pants. Despite my discomfort we hammered down the mountain and were back at the car before we new it. I was so soggy Liz suggested I took off my trousers and enjoyed the journey home dry but in my pants. But Storey Arms (still not a pub with a nice warm fire) was still jumping like a city centre Weatherspoons on a Saturday night so I decided to remain soggy all the way back to Cardiff, where a warm shower and nicely pressed shirt awaited and a night on the town.
We're back in Cardiff in time for our evening at Queer Question Time and being proud around various pubs in the city centre.
Our day out in the Brecon Beacons was a pleasure and showed us you can go for a lovely walk and be home in time for tea (or a pint).
I would highly recommend a trip to the Pen Y Fan, particularly if you're looking for a way to start hill walking. You'll have an excellent sense of achievement, see some beautiful landscapes and you'd have to try really hard to get lost.
Our day out in the Brecon Beacons was a pleasure and showed us you can go for a lovely walk and be home in time for tea (or a pint).
I would highly recommend a trip to the Pen Y Fan, particularly if you're looking for a way to start hill walking. You'll have an excellent sense of achievement, see some beautiful landscapes and you'd have to try really hard to get lost.
Lessons learnt!
- You don't have to drive for four to five hours to have a nice walk.
- Wear waterproof trousers- always.
- The word 'Arms' in a title doesn't always indicate a pub.
- Variety is the spice of life, in people and mountains.
- Just because you're a lesbian in a fleece doesn't mean you can't be a lesbian in a rainbow bow tie dancing in the street because it's PRIDE!!!!!
